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Approx. 54 cm x 40 cm, 8 cm high
It used to be that I could backpack with a dog-eared guidebook and no plans beyond the next day or two. Getting off the bus, kids often met you and offered their homes or a relative’s for accommodation. They would walk you to the place and receive a tip, meal or treat from the homeowner.
I boarded a bus in southern Peru, heading north and said I wanted to get off at Chala. The bus driver was stumped. No one usually gets off there, so he didn’t know how much to charge me. The driver grunted, “no hay nada en Chala” (there is nothing in Chala). We agreed on a fare along with a side deal. The bus would stop in Chala for a break. I would have 15 minutes to walk up and down the street to see that “no hay nada en Chala” and he’d let me back on the bus that was destined to Lima at no charge. Deal!
I stayed in Chala for 6 days.
An archaeological site marks the Incan port from where fresh fish was once sent all the way to Cuzco by runners. The sea is dramatic at this part of the coastline, splashing the observer who dares to sit on the rugged rocks.

















